Straight answers for Toronto boat owners.

From $23 per foot for an open boat (minimum $400), $27/ft for cuddies and sailboats up to 30 ft, $30/ft for express cruisers and $37–42/ft for flybridges. Jet skis are $195. Spring unwrapping is included; prices before HST. See all prices and the calculator →

Yes. We come back in spring, remove the film and frame, and you pay once.

For outdoor winter storage, yes. Shrink wrap is heated tight over a frame, so it sheds snow, doesn’t flap in the wind and keeps dirt off the deck. A tarp holds water and snow and lets debris in. A well-fitted canvas cover also works, but costs much more up front.

Not when it’s vented. Mildew comes from trapped moisture and condensation. We install marine vents on every wrap so air moves through the boat all winter. A clean, dry interior before wrapping helps too.

Right after haul-out, once the boat is on stands or a trailer, usually October to mid-November. Book as soon as you know your haul-out date; the end of October is the busiest.

Usually a few weeks before launch, once the heavy snow is done, so there’s time for a spring wash, polish or bottom paint. Tell us your launch date and we’ll plan around it.

Yes, we’re fully mobile. We work at marinas, yacht clubs and storage yards from Oakville to Scarborough, including Port Credit, Mimico, Etobicoke Yacht Club and the Toronto waterfront, subject to each facility’s contractor rules. No travel fee from Oakville to the Toronto waterfront; farther areas have a travel fee confirmed in your quote.

It helps, because the boat is sealed at the perimeter, but no cover is mouse-proof. Mice usually climb in through stands, ladders or gaps near the hull. Remove food, clean the interior and keep ladders away from the boat.

Yes. Flybridges, radar arches, hardtops, towers and sailboat masts are all wrapped with a frame built around them. They need more film and framing, which is why flybridge boats are priced from $37 per foot.

Yes. Add a zippered access door ($60) when we wrap it.

You can, but it takes a heat gun, the right film width, strapping, vents and framing, and many marinas restrict open-flame tools. The usual DIY problems are a flat frame that collects snow, torn film and no ventilation.

Remove food and valuables, take off canvas and electronics you don’t want left on board, and have the boat winterized mechanically. A clean, dry boat stays fresher under the wrap. We can clean it before wrapping.

In most cases, yes. Compounding removes the oxidized layer, polishing brings the gloss back, and wax, sealant or ceramic protects it. Very worn or thin gelcoat may need repair or paint. Gelcoat polishing.

If you want the gloss to last and the boat to be easier to wash, often yes. A ceramic coating resists UV and dirt better than wax and lasts much longer, but costs more up front and needs proper polishing first. We’ll tell you honestly if wax makes more sense. Ceramic coating & waxing.

Find and remove the moisture source first: wet carpet, cushions, bilge water or a leak. Then deep clean the cabin, upholstery and head, and let the boat ventilate. Interior cleaning and odor removal.